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Here is a summary of the key points from the introduction to the book “How to Grow Practically Everything”:

The book provides step-by-step guides to growing a wide range of plants, from spring bulbs and easy-care shrubs to vegetable gardens and backyard fruit trees. It includes tips for ensuring plants thrive.
The first chapter covers gardening basics like identifying plant types, how plants grow and reproduce, understanding soil, choosing a garden style, planning plantings, preparing beds, essential tools, and a seasonal planner.
Subsequent chapters provide ideas for different garden areas like beds, containers, structural features, fruit/vegetables, wildlife gardening, and houseplants. Each includes planting guides and plant selections.
Quick checklists indicate the time required for each project and necessary tools/plants.
The book concludes with advice on garden maintenance, pests/diseases, and plant propagation. It aims to equip readers with all the knowledge needed to create a beautiful, productive garden.
Lots of photos and clear instructions make the guides accessible for beginners. The wide variety of project and plant ideas provide inspiration for gardens of any size or style.

In summary, the introduction outlines the comprehensive scope of the book in teaching readers how to successfully grow a broad range of plants through practical, easy-to-follow guidance.

Different plant types play different roles in the garden, such as annuals for color, perennials for structure, grasses for movement.
Plants need water, air, nutrients and light to thrive when planted. They will struggle without proper supplies of these.
Plants reproduce sexually through pollination and seed production or asexually through root growth and spreading. Both help ensure survival.
Soil texture depends on the proportions of sand and clay. Sandy soil drains well while clay retains moisture. Ideal is loam with a mixture.
Test your soil type by feeling how it behaves when rolled between fingers. Sandy soil falls apart, clay retains shape.
pH testing determines soil acidity which impacts what plants will grow well based on their pH requirements. Proper testing is important for plant health.

The instructions say to wait until the soil test solution changes color, then match the color to the chart to determine the pH level of the soil. Adding organic matter like compost and manure helps improve soil quality regardless of the soil type. For clay soil, spreading horticultural grit and digging it in can help with drainage. When planning a garden, it’s important to assess how much sun and shade different areas receive throughout the day to choose appropriate plants for each location. Factoring in practical needs like seating areas is also important when designing the layout. Grouping plants in masses and considering color themes can help achieve different styles like formal, cottage garden, or modern styles.

Here is a summary of the passages:

The left passage describes two different spring garden designs - one using bright blue forget-me-not flowers to create an exciting design to signal the arrival of spring. The other uses a calming blue and white design with grasses, daisies, Bergenia and Euphorbia plants.

The right passage provides guidance on getting ready for planting in the garden. It advises assessing site and soil conditions first to determine what plants are best suited. It discusses making a plant list, choosing plants carefully by checking labels, looking for healthy specimens, and giving the plants a quick check before purchasing. It also covers temporarily storing plants if not planting immediately and preparing the soil by removing weeds, digging, and adding amendments like compost or manure.

Here are the key steps to create a new border:

Mark out the border area with string or a hose, then cut the turf into squares and lift it out.
Prepare the site by removing weeds, stones and debris. Loosen and break up the soil.
Enrich the soil by digging in well-rotted organic matter or compost. Add horticultural grit if the soil is clay.
Rake the surface smooth.
Plant perennials in groups of three or more, checking their depth and watering them in.
Mulch around the plants once established to retain moisture and suppress weeds.
Ongoing care involves weeding, watering during dry periods, and deadheading flowers to extend the blooming season.

The key steps are preparing the soil properly, grouping plants attractively, planting at the right depth and watering them in. Ongoing care keeps the border looking good all season.

Here are the key details about some common spring bulb plants:

3 Snowdrop, Galanthus nivalis; h6 in (15 cm) s2 in (5 cm) AdE H

4 Tulip ‘Yellow Improved’; h18 in (45 cm) s8 in (20 cm) AdE H12–1

5 Darwin hybrid tulip, Tulipa x floriflora; h18 in (45 cm) s8 in (20 cm) AdE H48

6 Fritillaria meleagris; h12 in (30 cm) s6 in (15 cm) ABE H48

7 Scilla siberica; h6 in (15 cm) s2 in (5 cm) AdE H

8 Camassia quamash; h24 in (60 cm) s6 in (15 cm) AdE H

9 Hyacinth orientalis; h12 in (30 cm) s6 in (15 cm) AdE H48

Here are some fragrant plant options for a scented garden, in order of effectiveness:

Mock orange (Philadelphus) - very strongly scented small white flowers in spring.
Daphne - powerful spicy scent from its pink/purple flowers.
Wallflower (Erysimum) - heady perfume from brightly colored spring flowers.
Chocolate plant (Cosmos) - aptly named for its bitter chocolate scent.
Mahonia - leathery evergreen leaves and winter yellow flowers highly scented.
Scented roses - summer roses come in many perfumes like tea, spice or fruit.
Lavender (Lavandula) - aromatic grey leaves and purple flowers beloved by pollinators.
Garden pinks (Dianthus) - delicately fragrant clove scent from these cottage garden blooms.
Rhododendron - some species like R. luteum have intensely perfumed flowers.

So in summary, plant mock orange, daphne, mahonia and scented roses for the strongest fragrances, and include lavender, wallflowers and garden pinks for delightful smaller scents.

The passage describes how to create a shady rockery garden that is well-suited for shade-loving plants like ferns, ivies, and violas. The best time to start is in the autumn. Preparation involves creating a sloped area with topsoil if the site is flat. Large, attractive stones are placed on the slope and planted between with plants like bugle, creeping phlox, dog’s-tooth violet, hardy ferns, hostas, and ivies. The rockery provides cool, moist but well-draining conditions for these types of plants and will be at its best in the springtime. Completion of preparation and planting is estimated at 6 hours.

Here is a summary of the steps to create a romantic rock garden as outlined in the passage:

Select and prepare the site in autumn. Dig in grit if drainage is poor and thoroughly weed the area.
Select and place stones into the soil. Larger stones at the base of the slope and smaller at the top. Bury one third of each stone and angle them so rain runs off.
Check planting positions in spring. Arrange plants in pots around the rock garden area to plan layout before final planting.
Plant in the pockets between the stones. Plant violas, ferns, and other suitable plants after checking final positions.
Mulch planted areas with composted bark or similar to help retain moisture and suppress weeds.
Water regularly, especially the first year, as plants establish themselves in the rock garden.

2 hours preparation time to improve the soil with organic matter.
3 hours estimated time to plant the flowers and plants.
Heavy soils should be improved by spreading a layer of grit over the area and digging it in to improve drainage.
The plants will be laid out in the planting plan listed, taking care to arrange them and envision how they will grow in relation to each other.
Some plants like delphiniums may need staking as they grow.
Regular watering will be needed in the first year to help plants establish.
Cutting back can be done in spring after leaves appear to neaten the border and make space for new growth. Fertilizer and mulch should be added then as well.

This summary provides instructions for creating an easy-care perennial border with drought-tolerant plants:

Prepare the soil by spreading an 3 inch layer of organic matter over the soil and digging it in. Clay soils may also require horticultural grit for drainage.
Start planting at the back of the border, using Crocosmia in back, then Heliopsis and Sedum in front. Be careful not to bury the stems of the plants.
Plant a line of lavender at the front of the border following the instructions on pages 82-83. Space the lavender 18 inches apart.
Finish by mulching the border with bark chips or gravel to retain moisture and suppress weeds. Water during dry periods when first establishing the plants.

Here is a summary of the key points about planting a modern rose garden:

Prepare the soil by digging in organic matter to improve drainage and nutrient levels. Roses prefer sunny, well-drained soil.
Plant disease-resistant roses in autumn or early spring. Modern varieties like ‘Winchester Cathedral’ are good choices.
Space roses about 3-4 feet apart. Plant bush roses with the graft union several inches above soil level.
Mulch around the roses with bark chips or gravel to suppress weeds and retain moisture.
Plant perennials between the roses for all-season interest. Good options include salvias, geraniums, agastaches.
Water new plantings during dry spells. Apply a balanced fertilizer or compost in spring and again after deadheading.
Prune bush roses in late winter/early spring to encourage new growth. Remove any dead, damaged or diseased stems.
Deadhead flowers to encourage further blooms. Dispose of fallen leaves to reduce disease spread.
In autumn, cut back perennials and apply a mulch layer to prepare the garden for winter.
This design illustrates planting a classic white rose along with other complementary plants in a simple rose bed.
The steps provided detail how to prepare the soil, plant the rose, check the planting depth, apply mycorrhizal fungi, firm the rose into the soil, and provide aftercare instructions.
A list of the other plants to include in the bed is provided along with their positions numbered 1-7 in the diagram.
The design is described as easy to plant and maintain, taking about 3 hours to complete. Materials needed include a spade, gloves, bamboo stake, organic matter, and mycorrhizal fungi.

Here is a summary of the key points about selecting different materials for pots and containers in a cottage garden:

Terracotta is inexpensive but porous, drying out soil quickly and susceptible to frost damage. Glazed terracotta comes in different colors.
Wood and baskets provide a natural look but wood needs protection from rot and baskets only last a few years. Check wood is from sustainable forests.
Metal comes in various styles from rustic to modern and durable options include galvanized and powder-coated but thin metal offers little insulation. Prone to overheating, frost and rust.
Stone and concrete are extremely durable, frost-proof and insulating but very heavy. Concrete is inexpensive while stone is more expensive. Synthetic stone looks like stone at lower cost.
Synthetics like plastics, polymers and fiberglass are frost-proof, durable, available in many colors and suitable if children/pets are present.
An informal mixture of pots in different materials, sizes and shapes creates a harmonious cottage garden design. Consider durability and maintenance requirements of different materials.

Here is a summary of the key points about the amount of soil needed for pots:

For small pots, fill the bottom third with soil and plant the plant into the soil.
For larger pots, fill the bottom third with broken clay pot pieces or plastic for drainage before adding the soil on top. This prevents the soil from compacting and allows water to drain out.
You can add water-retaining gel crystals to the soil to help keep it moist and reduce watering needs.
Make sure to leave a 2 inch gap between the top of the soil and the rim of the pot so water has space to drain out.
Firm the plant gently into the soil when planting and water well.

So in summary, allow for good drainage by using pot shards on the bottom, fill about 1/3 of the pot with soil, leave space at the top, and firm plants gently into the soil when planting.

Water in well-established main stems of plants grown on a trellis to keep them healthy. Tie new growth to the trellis as it develops.
Place a layer of gravel or pebbles on top of the compost in pots to minimize evaporation and keep the roots cool. This also improves the appearance.
Clematis varieties that are naturally compact, such as ‘Arabella’ and ‘Barbara Jackman’, are well-suited for growing in pots. Prune summer-flowering types in late winter to keep them bushy.
Choosing container-friendly clematis includes compact cultivars that flower when small, such as ‘Comtesse de Bouchaud’ and ‘Kingfisher’.
Position pots of fragrant lilies near doors to enjoy their perfume. Popular scented types include Oriental hybrids and species like ‘L. auratum’ and ‘L. candidum’.

Here is a summary of the instructions:

Drill drainage holes in the bottom of tin cans. Wear gloves for safety.
Line the cans with broken clay pot pieces or plastic to prevent soil from washing out.
Fill the cans with multi-purpose potting soil.
Plant grasses like Festuca glauca ‘Elijah Blue’ and ‘Golden Toupee’ in the cans along with summer flowering plants like Brachyscome and Calibrachoa ‘Million Bells Purple’.
Arrange the plant-filled cans around a patio or garden area for a decorative display over the summer.
Water the plants as needed to keep the soil moist. The grasses and flowers will provide an attractive low-maintenance container garden through the summer months.

The passage discusses using cans singly or stacked to create creative plant containers. Single cans can be filled with soil and turf to make stepping stones or planted with grasses and flowers. Stacked cans can create taller containers. It recommends adding clay pot pieces to the bottom of cans for drainage before planting. Old wheelbarrows also make excellent containers when drainage holes are drilled and soil is added. Tiny succulents are suggested for use in small seashells. Drainage holes should be drilled in watering cans before using them to decorate trees with colorful sedums. A slate trough can be used as a container if prepared with drainage material, soil and alpine plants. Finally, patio roses or a modern mix of tropical plants in a contemporary container are presented as creative patio planting ideas.

Here is a 125-word summary:

This summary describes three glazed earthenware containers arranged together to hold bold, green, textured foliage plants. A metal pot is placed on a stabilizing plate which can be hidden with gravel to make the pot appear to float. Tall clay pots fired to be frostproof are suitable for decks or stone patios. A copper bowl retains its color and provides contrast for ferns while mirroring the metallic shades of cannas.

The summary discusses three different types of containers - glazed earthenware, a metal pot on a plate, and tall clay pots. It describes the types of plants that would look good in each, such as bold foliage plants in the earthenware, gravel to disguise the plate under the metal pot, and ferns and cannas paired with the copper bowl. Features like frostproof clay and suitability for outdoor spaces are also mentioned.

Here is a summary of the key steps to create a winter windowbox:

Select a frost-proof container such as a terracotta or plastic windowbox
Choose plants that will last through winter such as conifers, shrubs, grasses and hardy herbs
Soak newly purchased plants well before planting
Add drainage material like broken plastic pieces to the bottom of the container
Fill with ericaceous potting mix suitable for acid-loving plants
Arrange plants aesthetically in the container
Water plants in well after planting
The windowbox will provide colorfulinterest from autumn through spring

Here is a summary of the instructions for planting in a windowbox and creating a container display on an outdoor ladder:

Place the plants in their original pots in the windowbox and make sure they will sit about 1 inch below the rim when planted to allow for watering. Evenly space the bulbs and plants in the windowbox, filling in soil around them. Add some grape hyacinth bulbs and cover with soil.

To create a display on an outdoor ladder, stack pots of annuals on the steps of the ladder. Choose colorful plants like pansies, violas, and ornamental cabbage. Plant the containers with drainage holes and soil. Arrange the pots on the ladder, wedging the smaller pots between the steps. Water the containers daily and remove fading flowers regularly.

The passage provides instructions for braiding or twisting young bay plant stems together to create an attractive, textured structure. It recommends using 2-3 young bay plants or a plant with suckering stems. The first steps involve selecting straight stems, removing leaves from the lower parts, and planting the stems closely together in a large container. Then the stems are loosely braided, passing them left over right and vice versa. Once braided, the stems are secured with twine and trimmed for a compact shape. Over time as the tree grows, pruning is needed to encourage bushier growth. This technique produces an expensive, sculptural look using only young plants and time for them to develop. Proper planting and aftercare can yield an attractive garden feature.

Tree ferns make good focal points in shady areas and can be underplanted with other shade-loving plants like ferns and hostas.
Their trunks provide an upright structure.
This summary focuses on using tree ferns as landscape elements and underplanting them to create pleasing garden bed compositions in shady spots.

Here is a summary of the key points about planting a formal hedge:

Prepare the site 6 weeks in advance by removing weeds and digging a trench along where the hedge will go. Add compost or manure to improve the soil.
Plant in late autumn to early spring when bare-rooted plants can be purchased. Pot-grown plants can be planted anytime.
Mark planting intervals along a string line, typically 18-24 inches apart.
Check planting depths match how deep the plants were previously.
Plant one by each stake and firmly backfill, leaving a slight dip for watering.
Mulch after planting and water regularly for the first year. Add fertilizer annually in spring.
Trim closely when established to maintain a formal, neat appearance year-round.

The summary hits the main steps for site preparation, planting technique, spacing, care after planting and long-term maintenance to establish a formal, trimmed hedge.

Here is a summary of the instructions for laying a lavender hedge and shearing lavender plants:

Prepare the ground 1-2 months before planting by digging in well-rotted organic matter to improve drainage. Also add horticultural grit to heavy clay soils.
Space lavender plants 12 inches apart in trenches or holes. Firm them into the soil at the same level they were grown in pots. Water them in.
Shear lavender in late winter/early spring and late summer. Use clean tools and disinfect before and after. Shear back to old wood but not into it. Keep hedge level.
Shear in late spring/early summer after new growth to maintain a bushy hedge. Cut back flower heads in late summer to prevent unwanted seeding.
Clean garden shears before and after shearing. Wear gloves for protection and to prevent spread of disease. Works systematically along the hedge.

The summary covers the key steps for laying a lavender hedge, including site preparation, planting, and annual shearing/pruning to maintain the hedge shape and encourage new growth.

Here is a summary of the supplied text:

The text provides instructions for laying turf to create a new lawn. It describes preparing the site by weeding, removing debris, and improving the soil with organic matter and fertilizer.

To lay the turf, start with the first row along one edge and tamp it down. Stagger the joints between peices as you lay subsequent rows to create a tight seam. Do not use small pieces at the edge which may dry out.

Apply a top dressing of sandy loam into the joins to fill any gaps. Water well initially and during dry spells in the first growing season. The text also provides tips for shaping lawns and naturalizing bulbs in an existing lawn.

Finally, it gives instructions for planting climbers such as installing horizontal wires for support, digging a hole, positioning and planting the climber, and creating a water reservoir around the base. Choosing the right type of climber depends on how it climbs surfaces - through self-clinging, twining, or using support like roses.

Here is a summary of the key points about using depression as a structural feature in gardening:

Depression acts as a water reservoir, collecting and holding rainwater and irrigation. This helps ensure moisture is available to plant roots.
It guides moisture to plant roots by gravity. As the soil slopes down towards the depression, water will drain and collect in the low area. Plant roots located in or near the depression will have easy access to this stored water.
It is important to select climbers and vines that are an appropriate final mature size for the intended support structure. The structure needs to be large and sturdy enough to support the plants when fully grown.
Young climbing plants should be loosely tied to supports to help them attach and climb as they grow. Supports can include trellises, obelisks, fences, trees or other structures.
Regular watering and mulching is needed for new plantings to help them establish. Climbers also require pruning and tying in of new growth as they mature to keep them attached to the support.

Here is a summary of the key points about Parthenocissus tricuspidata and related vines from the passage:

Parthenocissus tricuspidata is a Virginia creeper vine that can grow up to 70 feet tall. It is recommended for covering pergolas.
Parthenocissus henryana is also a vine that grows up to 30 feet tall.
Parthenocissus tricuspidata ‘Lowii’ is a variety of Virginia creeper that also grows up to 70 feet tall.
Decorative vines like these are attractive climbers that produce colorful foliage and fruit to attract birds in the autumn.
The passage recommends vines as a way to add height, color and visual interest to gardens.

The passage describes how to create living screens and walls using willow or shrub plants. Some key points:

Willow screens can be made by planting willow cuttings (setts) in the ground spaced 8 inches apart and weaving the stems as they grow. Proper care includes regular watering and pruning.
A living willow tunnel is created similarly but using longer willow rods planted in pairs to form arched shapes.
Firethorn or other shrubbery like flowering quince, California lilac, flannel bush or silk tassel bush can be planted in a wall or fence line to form a living wall. Stems are tied to horizontal wires as the plants establish.
Established wall plants should be trimmed periodically to shape and thin growth, and maintain a neat appearance against the structure. Proper planting, staking, watering and mulching is important for healthy growth.

The passage provides instructions for making willow screens and tunnels as living fences or barriers, as well as planting shrubbery walls for ornamental structure, foliage, flowers and berries in the garden. Regular pruning and care is emphasized.

An ivy arch can provide colorful foliage and textures during winter months. To create, erect a garden arch and plant ivy around it, securing stems to the arch with twine as they grow. Water and trim as needed.
Winter jasmine is a wall shrub that can also be trained over structures with long, lax stems. It blooms profusely in winter with golden yellow flowers. Plant in full sun or partial shade.
Evergreen clematis varieties like Clematis armandii and C. cirrhosa bloom throughout winter. Plant deeply in well-drained soil and water during dry spells when establishing. Trim untidy growth after flowering.
Standard trees provide bold structure but can be created from plants with strong central leaders with pruning and staking guidance provided. Holly is used as an example but many plants can be grown as standards.
Conifers provide colorful foliage and structure year-round. When choosing, consider mature size to ensure it will suit the space. Smaller varieties are good options for confined gardens.
The project describes planting a productive patio garden in pots using vegetable and flower seeds or purchased young plants.
It recommends sowing seeds for crops like asparagus peas, Swiss chard, and squash in late spring, either indoors or directly in pots. Tomatoes can be grown from seed or young plants.
Seedlings are hardened off before being planted into pots filled with potting mix after the last frost. Crops like tomatoes, asparagus peas, herbs and flowers are planted. Support is provided for vines like peas and squash.
The patio garden will be at its best in summer and early fall. Daily watering is needed to keep the containers moist. A weekly feeding with tomato fertilizer will encourage a bountiful harvest. Growing crops in large bags is also suggested to maximize space. Colorful marigolds are included to beautify the display.

Here is a summary of the key points about growing potatoes in raised beds:

Potatoes prefer a sunny, well-drained location with fertile soil. Raised beds are ideal as they provide excellent drainage.
“Chit” or sprout seed potatoes in trays or egg cartons indoors in late winter before planting outdoors once the risk of frost has passed.
Plant seed potatoes 12-16 inches apart in trenches or mounds of loose soil or compost. Cover with 4-8 inches of soil.
As the plants grow, regularly “earth up” or mound more soil around the base of the stems to prevent sunlight from greening the tubers. This encourages additional tuber growth.
Harvesting begins when flowers start to bloom. Gently dig up the tubers, trying not to bruise them. Small “new” potatoes can be harvested earlier.
Maincrop potatoes store best in a cool, dark place in bins or breathable bags over winter. Check regularly for rot.
Alternative methods like growing in bags or containers on patios are also suitable if space is limited. Just remember to water regularly.

Here is a summary of key points from the passages:

Quick and easy temporary beds can be made using treated wooden planks pushed halfway into the soil.
Low beds are easy to make and ideal for leafy crops like lettuce and spinach.
Permanent raised beds can be built from bricks, leaving gaps for drainage. Raised bed kits are also available.
Tall beds should be screwed together rather than just stacked to provide stability.
Dual purpose beds that double as seats allow easy access for tending crops.
Vegetables like chard, radishes and beans can be grown successfully in containers on patios or doorsteps for convenient harvesting.
Easy green crops like cabbage, spinach and oriental greens can provide vitamins throughout the year with successive plantings.
Winter crops like leeks, parsnips and cabbage need to be started early to develop fully before cold weather arrives. Mulching helps protect cold-sensitive crops.
Parsnips taste sweetest after a light frost, so don’t harvest too early. Their leaves die down in winter, so mark the rows so the roots can be found. Dig up as needed; their taste improves through the winter.
Brussels sprouts are a common winter vegetable. Sow seeds in spring and plant seedlings in summer. Cover plants with mesh to protect from pests. Harvest sprouts from the bottom up as they mature.
Growing microgreens like cress indoors provides fresh salad ingredients year-round. Sow cress every couple weeks. Sprouting beans adds crunch and nutrients; try varieties like alfalfa and broccoli. Clean and rinse sprouting containers daily.
Some flowers like lavender, roses and nasturtiums can be eaten as well as enjoyed. Most have subtle flavors used to decorate foods.
Onions, shallots and garlic are essential bulbs. Plant sets, shallot bulbs or garlic cloves in spring. Harvest onions in summer, shallots in fall and garlic in summer. Dry bulbs well for storage.
Tomatoes grow well in bags. Insert pots into bags to increase soil volume. Plant varieties like ‘Gardener’s Delight’ in bags and stake for support. Harvest tomatoes in fall.

Here is a summary of how to grow sweet squash:

Start seeds indoors in spring and transplant seedlings outdoors after frost. Choose a sunny spot with well-drained soil.
Plant zucchini seeds directly in pots or large plastic bags filled with soil. Plant one seed per pot or bag.
Hardened off seedlings by gradually exposing them to outdoor conditions before transplanting.
Provide sturdy support for vining squash varieties like pumpkins by using pea stakes or netting.
Water regularly, especially during flowering and fruit production. Add mulch to retain soil moisture.
Harvest zucchini when fruits are young and tender. Harvest pumpkins and winter squash when the skin is hard and the stem is dry.
Cure pumpkins and squash for 10 days before storage to last through winter. Store in a dry, cool place.

Here is a summary of the cultivars mentioned:

Squash ‘Little Gem Rollet’ - A type of summer squash.
Bush marrow ‘Badger Cross’ F1 - A bush vine type marrow hybrid.
Squash ‘Hooligan’ F1 hybrid - A type of winter squash, hybrid variety.
Butternut squash ‘Pilgrim’ - A type of winter squash.
Squash ‘Tromboncino’ - A type of winter squash with elongated fruits.

All the cultivars listed require full sun (AdE H12-1), which means a minimum of 6 hours of direct sun per day.

Raspberries and blackberries can be grown to provide fruits in autumn.
Raspberries are vigorous and easy to grow once established. They need pruning to control their spread. Autumn-fruiting varieties produce fruits in early to mid-autumn.
Blackberries can also be grown in large pots. Thornless varieties are less vigorous and more suitable for containers. They produce fruits in late summer to early autumn.
Both require support structures like stakes and wires or trellises. Their canes need to be tied in.
Raspberries require pruning of fruited canes after fruiting each year. Blackberries require pruning of fruited stems just after harvesting.
Both benefit from organic matter added to soil prior to planting. Regular watering and mulching is also recommended. Pinching off first year fruits allows the plants to establish strong root systems.

Here are the key points about growing fruit in large containers:

Currants (red, white, black) and gooseberries can be grown as bushes or trained on a trellis. Plant in large pots with soil-based potting mix and well-rotted organic matter. Water regularly and apply fertilizer in spring and tomato feed weekly during growing season.
Dwarf cherries and peaches grafted onto rootstocks like Colt, Gisela 5, Pixy or St. Julien A are suitable for containers. Protect blossoms from frost. Feed in spring and every two weeks after flowering.
Popular apple varieties suitable for dwarf rootstocks like M27, M9 or M26 include ‘Egremont Russet’, ‘Cox’s Orange Pippin’, ‘Discovery’, ‘Elstar’ and ‘Blenheim Orange’.
Pear varieties like ‘Williams’ Bon Chrétien’, ‘Doyenné du Comice’, and ‘Dwarf Lilliput’ are good choices.
Grow in large pots with potting mix, keep in sunny sheltered spot, and water/feed regularly to produce full sized fruit from dwarf trees. Renew soil annually for best production.

Here is a summary of the key points about growing citrus fruit:

Citrus prefer warm, frost-free conditions and grow well outdoors in summer but need protection from frost in winter.
Lemon trees can be grown from pips. Sow several pips per pot and grow the seedlings on until large enough to pot on individually.
Other citrus options include Calamondin orange (a kumquat-orange hybrid), Meyer lemon (cold-hardy), lime, grapefruit, and orange.
Citrus plants need plenty of water in spring and summer, less in winter. Use rainwater if possible.
Feed with a citrus fertilizer throughout the growing season.
Mist indoor citrus daily with rainwater to increase humidity and prevent red spider mite.
Provide a little warmth in late winter and spring to encourage flowering and fruiting.
Citrus make attractive patio or houseplants year-round and produce delicious fruit after a few years when grown from seed or young plants. Proper care and suitable growing conditions are needed for successful production of citrus fruit.

Here is a summary of the key points about growing different citrus fruits and kumquats indoors:

Mandarin or tangerine (Citrus reticulata) - One of the easiest citrus to grow indoors. Produces scented flowers all year round and has sour fruit.
Kaffir lime (Citrus hystrix) - Most often grown for its fragrant leaves, used in Thai cooking. Also bears knobby, very sour fruit.
Key lime (Citrus aurantifolia) - Known for its thin skin and delicious flavor. Commonly used to make daiquiris and margaritas.
Kumquat (Fortunella japonica) - One of the most attractive and easiest citrus to grow. Hardy in most areas and flowers in summer.

So in summary, mandarin, key lime and kumquat are some of the easiest citrus fruits to grow indoors, producing flowers and fruit. Kaffir lime is primarily grown for its fragrant leaves used in cooking, but also bears sour fruit.

Here are the key points to summarize about draining in gardening contexts:

Drainage is important to prevent soils from becoming waterlogged, which can damage plant roots and cause fruits/vegetables to split or rot.
Well-draining soils are recommended for most herb and vegetable plants. Loose, gritty soils allow excess water to drain away.
When planting in containers or baskets, a layer of gravel or broken clay pots at the bottom provides drainage and prevents soggy soil conditions.
Hanging baskets need to be well-drained to prevent pooling of water in the bottom which can damage plants.
Adding horticultural grit or perlite to clay/heavy soils improves drainage by creating pockets for water to drain through.
Good air circulation helps soil dry out between watering, reducing chances of fungal issues in overly moist conditions.
Drainage is especially important for wall-grown fruits like tomatoes, figs, and peaches which need excellent drainage for fruit production and to prevent splits.

Here is a summary of the provided text:

Apples and pears can be chosen for taste preferences like soft flesh vs solid texture. Varieties have different tastes.
Dwarfing rootstocks allow growing small apple trees on M27 or pear trees 10-20 feet tall on Quince A.
Autumn and winter are best for planting bare-root trees which establish quickly. Add organic matter to holes and stake trees.
Cherries and plums come in eating and cooking varieties. Grow on dwarfing rootstocks for small trees.
Prune apple/pear trees in winter, cherries/plums in summer to shape trees and improve fruiting.
Make wildlife ponds with sloping sides for access. Line with material and liner. Fill with water plants in baskets to help clear water like oxygenators. Finish with rocks and marginal plants.

Here is a summary of the steps to create a bog garden pot:

Line a large, non-porous container with plastic to prevent soil from leaking out the drainage holes. Pierce some small holes in the plastic lining.
Fill the bottom of the container with gravel to create a water reservoir and allow for drainage.
Add a layer of soil-based potting mix mixed with organic matter.
Place bog plants that have been pre-grown in pots into the container, making sure they are at least 2 inches below the rim.
Fill in around the plants with more potting mix and organic matter, firming it down gently.
Water the plants well, add a mulch, and place the container in a partially shady spot. Keep the soil moist.

Here is a summary of the key steps to make a bubble fountain:

Prepare the site by installing an outdoor electricity supply near the location.
Dig a hole larger than the reservoir and lay down a sandy foundation and fill in around the edges. Level the reservoir.
Place the pump in the reservoir, connecting it to the decorative pot above with piping.
Add the decorative pot on top of the reservoir lid, making sure the pump tubing fits through the drainage hole.
Attach a flow adjuster and piping to control the water flow and direct it up through the pot.
Fill with pebbles or gravel, add water, and turn on the pump to create bubbly water flowing up and out of the pot. Regular maintenance is required to keep it running well.

Here is a summary of the instructions:

Attach a pump pipe to the drainage hole in the bottom of a decorative pot. Seal it in place with silicone sealant.
Pass the pump pipe through the base of the pot and attach a flow adjuster. Trim the water delivery pipe so it reaches just below the rim.
Fill the reservoir through holes in the lid and fill the decorative pot to below the delivery pipe. Disguise the reservoir with pebbles and gravel.
Protect the electrical cord with special tubing as advised by an electrician. Ensure all electrical connections have a ground fault circuit interrupter (GFCI).
Plant around the pool, leaving space between the planting and reservoir. Plug in the pump and check the water flows over the rim, adjusting the flow as needed.
Fill the reservoir once a week during summer. Soften the look with suitable planting like Mediterranean plants, lavender, rock roses, roses, honeysuckle or daisies.
Constructing a wildlife wall creates habitats for beneficial insects like ladybugs and ground beetles. It can be made from various materials like bricks, tiles, wood planks, and roof tiles, leaving gaps for insects to nest.
The gaps can be stuffed with materials like bamboo, corrugated cardboard, moss, straw, and twigs to create homes. Sedum or sempervivum plants can be placed on top to create a living roof.
Once constructed, the wildlife wall should be left undisturbed to allow colonization. Occasionally restoring materials like straw that may be removed is recommended.
Other tips include creating a log pile habitat, making a dead hedge from vines and twigs, or installing a green roof with sedum matting to attract wildlife to the garden.
Composting turns garden waste into soil improver. Having the right mix of green and brown materials in the bin and regularly turning the compost aids the process. Homemade or commercial bins can be used.

Here is a summary of the key steps in the process described:

Soak the amaryllis bulb in lukewarm water for a few hours to soften it.
Plant the bulb in a pot with drainage holes, leaving the top third protruding. Fill with soil.
Water well and place in a warm, bright spot to stimulate growth. Water sparingly until leaves develop.
Once leaves appear, water regularly and keep the soil moist. The plant will develop flower shoots.
Allow the plant to go dormant at the end of summer by stopping watering and fertilizer. Cut back leaves.
Repot the bulb into a slightly larger pot after dormancy, then resume watering and care when new growth appears.
Turn the pot regularly once in flower to prevent leaning. Enjoy the large, showy blooms through winter.

The passage discusses growing exotic orchids as houseplants. It recommends choosing orchids that can thrive in home conditions, such as moth orchids or Cymbidiums. Healthy orchids will have green roots and firm buds. Orchids prefer small clear plastic pots to allow their aerial roots to photosynthesize. Overwatering is a common cause of orchid death, so water once or twice a week in spring/summer and less in winter. Use warm water and wipe off excess moisture. Fertilize when plants are first acquired and follow package instructions. Provide warm mist instead of cold water spray. Proper care allows orchids to live long happily as home plants.

Orchid soil contains no nutrients, so orchids must be fed weekly or biweekly with a proprietary fertilizer. Different orchid types have different watering needs - some need more frequent watering than others.
Placement is important as orchids have varying light requirements depending on type. Phalaenopsis and Paphiopedilum hybrids prefer shady spots, while Cattleya and Oncidium prefer bright indirect light.
Temperature is also crucial. Warm-growing types like Dendrobium and Phalaenopsis need warmth year-round. Intermediate types tolerate slightly cooler temperatures. Cool-growing types like Cymbidium do best with low temperatures all year.
Humidity is important for many orchids. Methods to increase humidity include misting leaves, using pebble trays, or placing plants on humidifiers.
Feeding should start as new growth appears in spring. Fertilize every 1-2 weeks in the growing season.
Repot annually in spring if the plant has outgrown its pot. Use a bark-based potting mix.

This passage provides instructions for creating a cactus desert bowl scene. It will take about 1.5 hours to complete. Materials needed include a shallow planting bowl, crocks or pebbles for drainage, cactus soil, washed sand for a mulch, newspaper, a spoon, gloves, and a watering can. Suitable miniature cacti options are listed.

Proper drainage is important, so the container should have drainage holes covered by pebbles or crocks. The cacti should be watered thoroughly before planting to help their roots make contact with the new soil. Once planted and arranged aesthetically, a layer of sand mulch can be added to complete the desert look. The cactus bowl will look best in early summer when newly planted and can be regularly watered during the growing season for the cacti to thrive and potentially flower.

Here is a summary of the steps provided:

Start by assessing the plant and whether it needs repotting if the roots are cramped. Repot into a slightly larger container if needed.
Choose a bright location for the plant, preferably a north-facing windowsill or within a few feet of a brighter window with indirect light.
Be careful not to overfeed the plant, as too much fertilizer can inhibit flowering.
Provide proper growing conditions similar to where the plant naturally occurs to encourage flowering. These include cold dormancy for clivias, short day lengths and nighttime temperatures for Christmas cactus, and humidity for moth orchids.
For plants that have flowered before, trim flower spikes after blooming to encourage reblooming.

So in summary, the key steps are assessing plant needs, providing proper growing conditions and light levels, avoiding overfeeding, and trimming flower spikes to encourage additional blooms. Proper repotting and fertilizing are also important to keep the plant healthy and promote flowering.

Begonias and Pilea prefer bright, diffused light and a temperature of 64-70°F.
Watering is important for these plants since they are prone to rotting if given too much or too little water. Every two weeks, remove the plastic pots from the container and place them in a bowl of water until the top of the soil is wet, then allow to drain.
If the container has drainage holes, line it with a plastic tray or bag to prevent water from leaking out. Add a layer of gravel to the bottom.
Place plastic pots containing the begonias and Pilea into the container, arranging them and adding more gravel to raise them to the correct level.
Proper feeding and removing weeds is important for plant care. Fertilizers provide nutrients like nitrogen, phosphorus, and potassium which plants need. Weeds should be removed by various means depending on if they are annual or perennial.

Here is a summary of the key points about mulching from the passage:

Organic mulches like manure, compost, bark chips help retain soil moisture, suppress weeds, and feed the soil as they decompose. They should be 4 inches deep and replenished annually.
Man-made mulches like landscape fabric, black plastic, and straw also provide benefits like weed suppression, warming the soil, and protecting plants.
Decorative mulches like pebbles, crushed glass, and shells are useful for containers and as permanent landscaping. They work best over landscape fabric to prevent weeds.
Proper watering of mulches is important - organic mulches should be spread over moist soil. Mulches also should not touch plant stems to avoid rot.
Automatic watering systems and leaky hoses can efficiently water plants with less work, though systems need periodic checks for proper water levels.
Containers dry out quickly and may need daily watering in summer. Lining porous pots with plastic can help retain moisture.
Bananas, tree ferns, and frost-sensitive plants like Alstroemeria prefer dry soil conditions and may suffer in wet winters. Protect them by constructing a wire cage topped with straw or other waterproof material like clear plastic sheeting.
Star magnolias are damaged by frost; protect their flowers with garden fleece.
Both bananas and tree ferns suffer in wet winters, so constructing a protective cage topped with a waterproof cover like clear plastic sheeting can help. In very cold areas, add a fleece wrapper as well.
Remove protective covers in late spring or when new growth appears.
Terracotta pots are prone to cracking in cold weather due to absorbing moisture. Line them with bubble wrap before planting to create a protective barrier.
Slightly tender potted plants are best wrapped in horticultural fleece over winter. Also tie together strappy plant leaves like cordylines to protect crowns.
Encourages pruning old shrubs and clearing away dead wood to encourage new healthy growth. Pruning in spring after flowering is recommended.
Evergreens are best pruned lightly to maintain shape and remove damage. Pruning in late spring to late summer is best to avoid removing blooms.
Hard pruning can rejuvenate overgrown deciduous or evergreen shrubs, though flowering may take a couple years to return. Frameworks of branches are maintained.
Light pruning is best for spring-flowering shrubs like ceanothus to avoid removing new wood. Long straggly branches can be shortened.
Clematis are divided into pruning groups based on flowering time. Early bloomers need light pruning, later bloomers are pruned hard in late winter to encourage new growth.
Roses are also pruned based on type. Floribunda and tea roses are pruned hard in early spring while shrub roses only need light thinning and shortening of stems.

Here is a summary of the key points about lawn care from the passage:

Lawn care involves watering, mowing, edging, aerating, and overseeding/reseeding.
Lawns should be watered deeply once or twice per week, applying 1-1.5 inches of water each time. Water early in the morning.
Mow lawns regularly when they are dry, at a height of 2-3 inches. Do not cut more than 1/3 of the blade at once.
Use an edger along sidewalks and fence lines to define the lawn edge neatly.
Aerating helps reduce compaction and allows water, air and fertilizer to penetrate the soil better.
Overseed bare patches in fall to thicken the lawn and fill in gaps. Reseed entirely if the lawn is more than 50% bare.
Fertilize in spring and fall to promote growth. Use balanced, slow-release fertilizers suitable for the grass type.
Control weeds through careful mowing, aerating and by removing weeds by hand or with herbicide.

So in summary, the key aspects of lawn care are watering, mowing, edging, aerating, overseeding/reseeding, fertilizing and weed control. Proper maintenance helps keep lawns green, thick and weed-free.

Here is a summary of the key points about mowing and watering lawns from the passage:

Mow grass whenever it is growing, as long as the ground isn’t too wet or icy. In spring, start with the highest blade setting and gradually lower it as growth accelerates.
In summer, a high-quality lawn may need cutting three times a week, but in autumn reduce to once or twice a week as growth slows.
Collect clippings for composting or use a mulching mower to return nutrients to the lawn. Rake off thick clippings which can damage the turf.
Water a new lawn weekly in dry spells until established. Established lawns can go unwatered but stop mowing, as longer grass helps protect roots. Grass may turn brown but recover with rain.
Water newly laid turf, freshly sown areas, and high-quality lawns in dry periods. Reduce water evaporation by watering early morning or night. Move sprinklers every 30 minutes.

So in summary, it gives guidance on how often to mow the lawn at different times of year, what to do with clippings, and when and how to water established and new lawns.

slug: s and snails damage plants by chewing leaves, petals, stems and fruit. Look for tattered leaves and ragged flowers.
They are most active at night and hide during the day under pots, rocks, etc. Organic controls include beer traps, copper strips/collars, and placing diatomaceous earth around plants.
Aphids suck plant sap and excrete honeydew which supports sooty mold growth. Look for distorted new growth, yellowing, and white skins they shed. control them with insecticidal soaps or oils.
Birds, mice, and other small mammals can damage seedlings, bulbs, and ripening fruits. Use barriers like netting or place pots in protected areas. Repel with twigs or bamboo stakes.
Identify pests by sighting the animal or seeing characteristic damage like holes, webbing, galls, spots, mines etc. Solutions may include traps, biological controls, or targeted chemical sprays.
Prevent plant diseases by choosing resistant varieties, planting in optimal conditions, and maintaining plant health/sanitation. Remove diseased parts promptly and clean/disinfect tools.

Here is a summary of key points about wing seeds:

Wing seeds refer to seeds that have “wings” or thin membranous extensions that allow them to be dispersed by wind. Common plants that produce winged seeds include dandelions, maples, elms, and ashes.
The wings help the seeds disperse over long distances as they are carried by wind currents. This is an adaptation that helps the plants colonize new areas.
After landing, the wing often twists or breaks off, allowing the seed to fall to the ground and hopefully germinate. Some seeds may transport even further if caught in updrafts or changes in wind direction.
Producing winged seeds is an efficient method of natural dispersal that requires no special mechanisms or animal vectors. It is a passive but effective strategy utilized by many trees, herbs, and wildflowers.
Wing seeds are usually small and lightweight with large surface areas provided by the wings. This design maximizes their ability to stay airborne and be carried by wind.

That covers the main points about the structure, function and ecological role of winged seeds in plant reproduction and dispersal. Let me know if you need any part of the summary explained further.

Here is a summary of the key points in the passage:

Beans are mentioned as being easy to care for and suitable for acid soils. Specific varieties mentioned are runner beans, dwarf French beans, and broad beans.
Apples are listed along with growing information and specific varieties.
Fiery grass is mentioned as liking acid soils.
Aquatic plants are discussed along with aquatic compost. Specific plants mentioned include parlor palm, arrowhead, and water lilies.
Bedding plants are discussed along with diseases. Specific plants mentioned include begonias, busy Lizzie, and million bells purple.
Berries and wall shrubs suitable for berries are mentioned.
Clematis is discussed with information on pruning and specific varieties.
Compost types are outlined including aquatic, ericaceous, and potting compost. Composting and bins are also covered.
Container plants are discussed with information on choosing containers, feeding, and grouping plants. Fruit, shrubs, and vegetables in containers are specified.
Conifers and dwarf conifers are outlined.

Here is a summary of borea var. alpina ‘Albert’s Gold’:

Borea var. alpina ‘Albert’s Gold’ is a dwarf alpine conifer variety.
It has bright golden-yellow spring colour followed by blue-green foliage all season.
‘Albert’s Gold’ stays low and compact, growing to only 30 cm tall and wide.
Its foliage retains its bright yellow-gold color throughout the growing season.
It is well-suited for rock gardens, alpine beds, or containers due to its small scale and colourful foliage.
This dwarf conifer variety produces no cones or seeds and spreads slowly by underground stolons.
‘Albert’s Gold’ prefers full sun and well-drained soil. It is drought and cold tolerant once established.

In summary, Borea var. alpina ‘Albert’s Gold’ is a compact, ground-hugging conifer variety prized for its bright yellow-gold foliage color year-round and suitability for small gardens.

Here is a summary of the entries listed under ‘y Colour’ 74–5 in the book:

Ribes sanguineum (flowering currant): Produces small red flowers in spring. Grows to 2-3m tall. Prune after flowering.
Viburnum opulus (guelder rose): Bushy shrub producing white flower heads in late spring followed by red berries. Grows to 3-4m. Prune after flowering.
Iberis umbellata (candytuft): Mat-forming perennial with white or purple flowers in spring. Grows to 15cm tall. Good for edging.
Choisya ternata (Mexican orange blossom): Sweetly scented white flowers in spring on an evergreen shrub to 2m. Partially shade tolerant.
Iris chrysographes ‘Black Knight’: Bearded iris with black velvety falls and golden beards. Grows 30cm tall. Plant in full sun.
Lavandula stoechas (French lavender): Bushy shrub with grey foliage and mauve flower spikes in summer. Grows to 1m. Very aromatic.

So in summary, it provides details on 5 plants well-suited for adding colour and interest to gardens in early spring through their flowers: flowering currant, guelder rose, candytuft, Mexican orange blossom, and ‘Black Knight’ iris, as well as French lavender which flowers in summer.

Here are the key points from the passages:

Atisium is a genus of plants including A. basilicum (basil), A. b. ‘Magic Mountain’.
Mediterranean plants mentioned include fruit such as peaches, pears, citrus. Vegetables include tomatoes, beans, garlic, onions.
Mycorrhizal fungi can benefit plants such as O. basilicum and Mediterraneum fruit plants.
Orchids mentioned include Oncidium, Miltoniopsis hybrid, Odontioda.
Pond plants listed are Pontederia cordata, Orontium aquaticum.
Some methods for laying pavers and designing with paving are described.
Pea sticks can be used for supporting peas, beans and squash. Mesh protects against pests for various crops.
Mint varieties named are Mentha cervina, M. requienii.
Features of different mycorrhizal fungi and Odontioda plant varieties are highlighted.

69, 240, 244-245. Shutterstock: Bil Jac (b). Topphoto/Dorin (cb). 72 asuka70 (l). 150, 236 Getting Images: John Glover (c). Image Source: Simon Bevan (tr). 154-155 GAP Photos: Adrian Warzecha (br). AsterProfessional (r). 156-157 Ventura Vintage Press: 151 John Porter (c). GAP Photos: Erling

dens: 50-51, 66-67, 70-71. Alamy Images: Greg Balfour Evans/Royal Horticultural Society (t). 58, 72, 94-95, 116-117, 128-129, 238-239, 350-351, 416. DigitalVision Vectors: Gary Collins (c). ShutterStock: Denis Jr. Tangney (tl). 150 Dorling Kindersley: Anthony Mitham & Eileen Tweedy (b). 58 Photofolio: Robert Buck (tl) . Getty Images: 529gkc (bl). 66-67, 71, 238-239, 350-351, 416 Shutterstock: Anton_Ivanov (c). 94-95, 116-117, 128-129 Photolibrary/Photographer’s Choice: Viacheslav Lopatin (c). 67 Icemen/Iconica: Getty Images. 69 Laura Scott/GAP Photos. 72 iStockphoto/ Thinkstock: serjcebu (c). 216, 357 Shutterstock: Rainer Leusink (c).

elm (br). 198 Photofolio: Els Bendert (tl). GAP Photo: Stefan Geldbach (br). 199 Alamy Stock Photo: Ingenuo Stock (cl). GAP Photo: Gary K Smith (cr). 202-203 Shutterstock: Ricardo_clap (c). 204-205 Alamy Stock Photo: Ben Wallace (c). 206-207 Photolibrary: John Eastwood (b). Alamy Stock Photo: Steve Daniels (tl). 208 Photolibrary: Beth Moon (br). 209 GAP Photo: Adrian Warren (bl). Alamy Stock Photo: Charles & Josette Lenars (tr). 210-211 GAP Photo: Paul Stewart (b). 212-213 PhotoAlto: Malte Mueller (b). 214-215 GAP Photo: Thanasis Katsikas (t). Alamy Stock Photo: David Greedy (b). 216-217 GAP Gardening Assistant: 216. DigitalVision: Veronica Turnbull (cl). 218-219 Photolibrary: Andy Crawford (t). GAP Gardening Assistant: 219.

99 Photofolio: Rod Marshall (l). 100-101 Photolibrary: Don Farrall (cb). 102-103 DigitalVision: Robyn Mackenzie(t). 105 iStock: David Ling (l). 106-107 Photolibrary: John Glover (c). 108-109 Photolibrary: Howard Rice(r). 110-111 Thinkstock: Brent Hofacker(c). 112 Shutterstock: Steve Johnson(cb).114-115 Shutterstock: Marina Zavialova(c). 116-117 DigitalVision: Francesco Tonelli(c). 118-119 iStock: think4photop(c). 120-121 adrian (t). 122-123 Photolibrary: Norbert EiseleGorin(c). 124-125 Photolibrary: Chris Gomersall(c). 126 GAP Gardening

Alamy Stock Photo: Ian Francis (t). 220-221 GAP Photo:

Karin Anderzon (cr). 222-223 Photolibrary: Nicholas Arnis

(t). GAP Photo: Fred Stratton (br). 224-225 GAP Photo:

Karin Anderzon (c). 226-227 GAP Photo: Gunter Marx (b).

228-229 Alamy Stock Photo: Ingenuo Stock (t). 230-231

GAP Photo: Magnus Aronson (c). 232-233 Alamy Stock

Photo: Steven Byles (c). 234-235 GAP Photo: Gunter

Marx (t). 236 GAP Gardening Assistant: 236. Photolibrary:

George Engles (cr). 237 GAP Gardening Assistant: 237.

Photolibrary: John Porter (cl). 238-239 Shutterstock:

kovalev-sergii (cb). 240-241 DigitalVision: Jonathan

Gregson (c). 242-243 GAP Gardening Assistant: 242-243.

244-245 ThinkStock: adesso (cb). 246-247 Photolibrary:

Clive Nichols (c). 248-249 GAP Photo: Barry Clayton (c).

250-251 GAP Photo: Keith Bradley (c). 252-253 Photolibrary:

Assitant: 126. 127-175 Shutterstock: sunny (c). 155 GAP Gardening Assistant: 155. 176 Photolibrary: Chris Gomersall (r). 178-179 Alamy Stock Photo: Steve Daniels (c). 180-181 Alamy Stock Photo: Ingenuo Stock (c). ThinkStock: peakXS (tl). 182-183 GAP Photo: Jess Kjorlien (c). 184-185 Red Industries - http://www.redphoto.co.uk/collection/1000604089 (c). 186-187 Photolibrary: Howard Rice (t). 188-189 DigitalVision: Heidi Garnett (c). 190-191 Photos.com: Danfung Dennis (c). 192-193 GAP Gardening Assistant: 192-193. Photolibrary: Jörg Hempel (cr). 194-195 ShutterStock: Bonniksen (c). 196-197 DigitalVision: Simon Walton (bl).

174-175 iStock: Joaoreis1 (c). 176 Dorling Kindersley:

Terry Whittaker(cb). 178 GAP Photo: Elina Sirparanta(c).

180-181 Shutterstock: Anna Nik (c). 182-183 Thinkstock: Lisa

F. Young (c). 184-185 Shutterstock: PhotographyByMK (c).

186-187 Shutterstock: Boyloso (c). 188-189 Shutterstock:

Christian Heeb (c). 190-191 Panther Media: Patrick Boland

Junior. 192-193 Shutterstock: 4x-image (c). 194-195

Photodisc: Paul Barker (c). 196-197 Dorling Kindersley:

Nigel Cattlin (b). 198 GAP Photo: Richard Bloom(b). 200-201 Dorling Kindersley: Graham Elford (b). 202-203 Flikr: Chris Allard (c). 204-205 Photolibrary: Martin Hughes-Jones (c). 206-207 Photolibrary: Howard Rice (b). 208-209 Photolibrary: Alastair Pollock (c).

John Eastwood (c). 254-255 GAP Image Library (c). 256-257 Dorling Kindersley: Kirsty Campbell (c). 258-259 Photolibrary: Bettina Furnée (c). 260-261 Shutterstock: Liba Taylor (c). 262-263 GAP Gardening Assistant: Jean Philippe Boussard. Photolibrary: Rick Lewis (cr). 264-265 Thinkstock: Rob Marmion (t). 266-267 Photolibrary: Ben Pipe (c). 268-269 Photolibrary: Richard Bloom (c). 270-271 Photolibrary: Richard Manville (c). 272-273 Photolibrary: Chris Gomersall (c). 274-275 Photolibrary: Angie Kopinski (c). 276-277 Shutterstock: Lightwise (c). 278-279 GAP Gardening Assistant: 278-279. 280-281 Photolibrary: Chris Gomersall (c). 282-283 Shutterstock: Roxana Gonzalez (c). 284-285 Photolibrary: John Glover (c). 286-287 Photolibrary: Bettina Furnée (c). 288-289 Photolibrary: John

210-211 Shutterstock: duncan1890 (c). 212-213 ThinkStock:

Fuse (c). 214-215 Photodisc: Geoffrey Smith (c). 216-217 PhotoAlto: Malte Mueller (c). 218-219 Photolibrary: Ardea

(c). 220-221 Thinkstock: Patrick Pichler (c). 222-223 Dorling

Kindersley: Sue Hale (c). 224-225 Photolibrary: Richard

Bloom (c). 226-227 Photolibrary: Deborah Austin (c). 228-

229 Photolibrary: John Glover (c). 230-231 GAP Photo:

Karin Anderzon (c). 232-233 GAP Photo: Magnus Aronson (c).

234-235 DigitalVision: Stacey Brandt (c). 236-237 Alamy

Stock Photo: LOOK Die Bildagentur der Fotografen GmbH

(c). 238-239 Thinkstock: FC Hudson (c). 240-241 Alamy

Stock Photo: Design Pics Inc (c). 242-243 Thinkstock:

Kwangmoozaa (c). 244-245 Photolibrary: David Osgerby (c).

246-247 Photolibrary: Howard Rice (c). 248-249 Thinkstock: monkeybusinessimages (c). 250-251 Dorling Kindersley:

Eileen Tweedy & Anthony Mitham(c). 252-253 Alamy Stock Photo: Mark Scott (c). 254-255 PhotoAlto: Malte Mueller (c). 256-257 Photolibrary: Richard Bloom (c). 258-259 Photolibrary: Ben Pipe (c). 260-261 Photolibrary: Howard Rice (c). 262-263

Glover (b). 290-291 Photolibrary: Ken Wilks (c). 292-293 Photolibrary: Robert Kennedy (c). 294-295 Photolibrary: John Glover (b). 296-297 Dorling Kindersley: Antony Edridge (c). 298-299 GAP Photo: Tran Bairen (c). 300-301 Photolibrary: Ardea (c). 302-303 Photolibrary: Richard Lewis (c). 304-305 Photolibrary: Andy Crawford (c). 306-307 DigitalVision: Rosario Illa De Verga (c). 308-309 Dorling Kindersley: Susan Hale (c). 310-311 Photolibrary: Lucie Debelkova (c). 312-313 Photolibrary: John Glover (c). 314-315 Photolibrary: Nigel Cattlin (c). 316-317 Photography By MK/Getty Images (t). 318-319 GAP Photo: Magnus Aronson (c). 320-321 Photolibrary: John Porter (c). 322-323 Photolibrary: Chris Gomersall (c). 324-325 Photolibrary: Howard Rice (c). 326-327 Photolibrary: Martin Hughes-Jones (c). 328-329 GAP Gardening Assistant: 328-329. Photolibrary: Angie

Kopinski (c). 264-265 Dorling Kindersley: Nigel Cattlin (b).

266-267 Dorling Kindersley: Teri Dunning (c). 268-269 Alamy

Stock Photo: John Richmond (c). 270-271 Photolibrary:

Richard Lewis (c). 272-273 Photolibrary: Chris Gomersall (c).

274-275 Photolibrary: Kenneth Brown (c). 276-277 Alamy

Stock Photo: FLPA - Nature (c). 278-279 GAP Gardening

Here is a summary of the picture credits:

Many photographs are credited to different photographers and image libraries, including Getty Images, GAP Photos, Photolibrary, Marianne Majerus Garden Images, Alamy Images, Dorling Kindersley, and Caroline Reed.
Specific gardens and events photographed include designs from the RHS Chelsea Flower Show, RHS Hampton Court Flower Show, and RHS Tatton Park.
Individual garden and landscape designers whose work is photographed include Mike Harvey & Arun Landscapes, Piet Oudolf, Marianne Majerus, Ian Dexter, Adam Frost, Jeff Hewitt, Nigel Boardman & Stephen Gelly, Luciano Giubbilei, and Martin Cousens among others.
Seed and plant catalogs like Brian T. North and D.T. Brown Seeds are credited for some photographs.
Gardens, estates and institutions photographed includePettifers Garden, Oxfordshire, Woodhouse Natural Pools, The Manor House Stevington Bedfordshire, and the Royal Botanic Gardens Kew.
Photographers credited include Jerry Harpur, Clive Nichols, Rob Whitworth, Julian Buckley, Pernilla Bergdahl, Christina Bollen, Richard Bloom and others.

Here is a summary of the suppliers listed in the “Suppliers” section:

Bulb suppliers like White Flower Farm, Spring Hill Nurseries, and Veseys that offer a wide variety of spring and autumn bulbs.
Garden tools and supplies retailers like Lee Valley Tools, Gardener’s Supply Company, and Hayneedle that sell tools, fencing/walls, organic pest controls, pots/containers, and more.
Plant/seed suppliers like Baker Creek Heirloom Seeds, Park Seed Company, and Territorial Seed Company that specialize in heirloom, organic, and rare vegetable/flower varieties.
Landscape materials sources like The Landscape Shop and USA Landscape Materials for pavers, rock, soil, etc.
Water gardening specialists like The Water Garden, Lilypons Water Gardens, and Pondliner for aquatic plants and pond supplies.
Wildlife gardening resources from the National Wildlife Federation on how to attract birds, bees and other animals with native plants.

The section provides North American and international suppliers for gardeners to source a wide variety of plants, seeds, tools and materials. Customs restrictions on live plant shipments between the US and Canada are also noted.

Here is a summary of the key contacts listed:

Annie Guilfoyle 020 7490 2400 01730 812943 annieguilfoyle.com

Fran Coulter frances.coulter@btinternet.com

Jeff Hewitt 01582 794019 hewittlandscapes.co.uk

Phillippa Probert 07734 157976 outerspaces.org.uk

Alan Burns 07921 860092

Philip Dugdale 0770 216 2317

Adam Frost adamfrost.co.uk

Hugh Thomas Gardens & Landscapes 01780 762748 hughthomas.co.uk

#book-summary

How to Grow Practically Everything - Allaway, Zia.,Leendertz, Lia